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食用调和油市场乱象调查
发布者:sleeping0616 发布时间: 阅读:3277次

    作为中国人的发明,食用调和油却缺乏明确的国家标准,这就导致目前市场上流通的调和油里到底是每吨4万元的茶籽油或者橄榄油,还是每吨6000元~8000元左右的棕榈油或者大豆油,谁也说不清。一位食用油企业负责人如此对《第一财经日报》表示。

    业内人士认为,就因为标准缺失,所以很多企业都在打擦边球,消费者吃到最多的可能还是最便宜的棕榈油和大豆油。

拉大旗作虎皮?

    3月12日,在上海市大宁商业中心大润发超市,本报记者找到了五种橄榄调和油,这五种橄榄调和油来自五家企业,均为5升装,最便宜的是中粮集团的“福临门茶籽橄榄调和油”和印度尼西亚金光集团的“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”,每桶价格分别为55.9元和56.0元;最贵的是益海嘉里集团的“金龙鱼橄榄食用调和油”,每桶117.9元,最便宜和最贵的橄榄调和油价格相差一倍以上。

    金光集团的“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”配料有三种,这三种成分在标签上的先后排序为:一级大豆油、一级玉米油、初榨橄榄油。橄榄油位列第三,但该产品却被命名为“纯正橄榄调和油”。

    2008年食用调和油国家标准征求意见中主要有两种命名方式,一是主原料占比应不少于50%,另一个是占比超过三分之一,也有企业认为,可以用占比最大的油料名字来命名。因此,以最后一种命名方式理解,“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”含有3种成分,既然以橄榄油来命名,那么橄榄油的占比应该占三分之一以上,才算得上比例最大,但从初榨橄榄油的价格来推算,该产品中初榨橄榄油的占比难以超过三分之一。

    根据国际货币基金组织公布的大宗商品橄榄油周数据,截至3月 5日的一周,橄榄油每吨价格为3340美元,折合每吨2.3万元。“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”用的不是一般的橄榄油,而是初榨橄榄油,价格要比一般橄榄油更高。从事橄榄油行业的一位企业人士对记者透露,特级初榨橄榄油的价格在每吨4万元左右。

    中华油脂网信息主编郭清保表示,由于食用油的密度比水小,1吨食用油换算成公升约为1100公升,这意味着1升初榨橄榄油的理论成本在36.4元左右。

    一桶5升的“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”,如果初榨橄榄油占到三分之一,也就意味着有1.5升,按照每升36.4元计算,理论成本应为54.6元,剩下的3.5升应该是一级大豆油和一级玉米油。而根据中华油脂网提供的数据,3月12日,国内一级大豆油的价格为每吨7700元,一级玉米油的价格为每吨 8000元,以价格较低的一级大豆油计算,3.5升大豆油的理论成本为24.5元,加上1.5升初榨橄榄油的成本,每桶5升“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”的理论成本应该是79.1元。也就是说不算包装费、物流费用以及进入超市的渠道费用等,一桶5升“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”要卖79.1元才能保本,而实际上该产品在大润发超市的售价为56.0元,这也意味着,每卖出一桶油,金光集团至少要亏损23.1元。

    据此推断,“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”中各成分占比最大的应该是大豆油或者玉米油。

    对此,金光集团食用油业务市场部一位工作人员表示不熟悉情况,推荐了该公司品管部一位技术人员作答;该人士表示之所以将产品命名为“大满贯纯正橄榄调和油”,是因为产品中加入了一定比例的橄榄油。但对于该加入多大比例才能命名为橄榄调和油,该人士表示这个问题属于行业机密,因为比例的不同会有营养的差别,各个公司会根据自己的研发结果添加不同比例的橄榄油,但是目前由于国家并没有出台相关标准,很多企业都在打擦边球,所以基本上没有几家是超过三分之一的。

亏本买卖谁做?

    同样的分析方法检验中粮集团生产的5升装“福临门茶籽橄榄调和油”。该产品在标签上列出的各成分按先后顺序分别为大豆油、花生油、油茶籽油、特级初榨橄榄油、芝麻油,虽然在成分排序上油茶籽油、特级初榨橄榄油分列第三、四位,但该产品仍以“茶籽橄榄调和油”命名。从理论上讲,产品中茶籽油占比应该在 20%以上,也即意味着产品中有1升的茶籽油,由于花生油、特级初榨橄榄油价格比较贵,可以得出茶籽油之外的4升油成本应该大于等于4升大豆油的价格。

    国家2009年11月发布的《全国油茶产业发展规划(2009-2020年)》中提到,“在国际市场上,茶油十分热销,国产茶油在日本等地的价格达每吨3万元以上,国内顶级茶油的售价达到每吨10万多元。”业内人士介绍,现在市场上茶籽油的价格与特级初榨橄榄油相差不大,也在每吨4万元上下,约合每升36.4元,“福临门茶籽橄榄调和油”中以含1升茶籽油计算,理论成本为36.4元,其余4升油料以价格便宜的大豆油计算,理论成本在28元,合计理论成本为64.4元,而其在上海大润发超市的售价仅为55.9元。

    记者就此联系中粮食品营销有限公司,其公关部门工作人员表示不清楚情况,留下记者的联系方式后,截至记者发稿时未有回应。

    如果以成本推算,上海佳格食品有限公司生产的5升装“多力橄榄葵花调和油”也难脱嫌疑。“多力橄榄葵花调和油”只有两种成分:压榨葵花油和特级初榨橄榄油,理论上既然称为“橄榄葵花调和油”, 特级初榨橄榄油占比应该在50%以上,即2.5升,理论成本为91元,剩余2.5升葵花油理论成本为 20.45元,总计理论成本为111.45元,而该产品的市场售价为108.8元。

    上海佳格食品有限公司一位工作人员委婉地对记者表示,特级初榨橄榄油究竟占多少比例她不清楚,但是建议记者注意标签上关于成分的表述,压榨葵花油排在第一位,特级初榨橄榄油排在第二位。截至记者发稿,该公司没有进一步回应。

    而益海嘉里5升装“金龙鱼橄榄食用调和油”中的成分先后顺序为:菜籽油、大豆油、橄榄油、玉米油、葵花籽油、亚麻籽油、花生油、红花籽油,对于橄榄油的具体占比问题,益海嘉里相关人士仅表示配方属于保密信息,暂时不能公布;对于定价117.9元的问题,益海嘉里方面人士说,这是根据综合成本以及品牌溢价能力等综合因素做出的。

合法的掺兑?

    一位业内人士对记者说,根据行业经验,从销售的价格可以倒推成本,因为销售渠道的利润率是稳定的,扣除这些费用,可以推算出橄榄调和油中橄榄油究竟占多大比例。纯特级初榨橄榄油750毫升1瓶的标准零售价是88元,而一些5升的橄榄调和油品牌售价只有60元左右,这些橄榄调和油中橄榄油不可能占主要比例,成本结构上不能支撑这个产品。

    一位食用油企业负责人评价:“市场上卖的茶籽调和油实际上都是棕榈油或者大豆油,有些企业象征性掺入1%~2%的茶籽油,有些根本就不掺;橄榄调和油里面一般都没有橄榄油,好的掺入3%~5%的橄榄油。现在企业跟着市场走,什么好卖做什么、标什么品牌。目前调和油已经占到农村市场的90%以上,因为调和油可以打价格战。”

    上述企业负责人进一步指出:“按照我们现在的国家标准,如果你是做单一成分的食用油品种,比如纯大豆油,要掺菜籽油等其他油种进去,如果不加标注,属于违法行为;但如果在产品上标注为调和油,就可以合法掺兑其他油种,而且掺多掺少只有企业标准。”他说,“一升橄榄油卖100多元一瓶,但是5升的橄榄调和油却只卖50元~70元,价格相差几倍甚至十几倍。价格竞争逼着所有厂家特别是中小型厂家掺假,你不掺假就没办法生存,市场秩序已经被打乱了。”

    业内人士说,以茶籽油为例,湖南没有多少茶油,但却有几十个调和油品牌;湖北有些厂家的茶树刚种上,茶籽很少,茶油也很少,但是有几十上百个品牌;还有不产一两茶籽的地方,照样生产茶籽调和油。

    业内人士寄希望于新的食用调和油国家标准出台,但新国标何时出台,依然没有明确的时间表。

(本文来源:第一财经日报 作者:傅勉 何天骄)

 
 

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